December 26, 2016

Tributes Continue For The Remarkable Editrix Franca Sozzani | Steven Meisel's 2005 'Hollywood Life'

December 26, 2016/ Anne Enke

The tributes to Vogue Italia Editor-in-Chief Franca Sozzani, who died of lung cancer last Thursday. continue to resonate. W's Stefano Tonchi shares his thoughts on the truly remarkable Sozzani.

Franca was assertive, with a directness that was born of the strength of her convictions. She was loud and clear when she talked; you didn’t second-guess her. She did not tolerate bullshit, but she loved to listen to ideas. She was also very good at managing talented photographers and stylists—which is both an incredible honor and incredibly frustrating—to allow them to do their best work. Italian Vogue had a tradition of working with important photographers like Helmut Newton, but there was always this sense of control. When she got there, she let the photographers take over.

The many admirers of France Sozzani have references her most notorious editorials and issues devoted to a single message. I wrote at length about America's PC fashionistas and self-appointed culture critics who were besides themselves with ire over Meisel's 'Water & Oil' editorial that put fashion within the values context of the BP oil spill. Simply stated, the Americanas couldn't get beyond step one of taking the editorial literally. I imagine France Sozzani took a deep sigh over that fiasco, when the editorial so concretely and without ambiguity was focused on environmentalism and a commentary on the irrelevance of fashion in a world where nature is suffocating in tar sands. .

Related: Remembering Franca Sozzani: A Worldview That Mattered by Vanessa Friedman of New York Times

Another major fashion adventure between Franca Sozzani and Steven Meisel was Linda Evangelista's 'Hollywood Life', published in 2005 as a social commentary on the need to be a woman with a young face in Hollywood. As always Sozzani was daring in her willingness to pursue ugliness (the procedures) in an American-values world that celebrates California girl youth and perfection. Sozzani was far more captivated by personality and presence, than beauty.

Linda Evangelista By Steven Meisel In 'Hollywood Life' For Vogue Italia July 2005 AOC Body Beat

December 26, 2016

George Michaels' 'Freedom': Christy, Cindy, Linda, Naomi and Tatjana Reflect On Making The Video

December 26, 2016/ Anne Enke

Christy, Linda, Naomi, Cindy & Tatjana by Peter Lindbergh for Vogue Australia As 'Supernova'

Last year celebrated the 25th anniversary of George Michael's 1990 music video 'Freedom!', an anthem for women, LGBTQ people, women and men of color, and hundreds of kindred spirits everywhere who were trying to establish their own identities against the patriarchal, monotheistic, global norms confining us in their medicine-bottle vision of appropriate behaviors and self-identiites.

George Michaels threw a sledge hammer into that power structure metaphorically -- if not actually -- with his 'Freedom' video and lyrics. As The Republican War on Women and many more -- based on its Godly, male-centric vision for America -- rolls into Washington, led by their new God Donald Trump -- we revisit 'Freedom' a day after progressive spirits are crushed by the death of George Michaels at 53. In a year when we've lost some of our best -- Bowie, and Prince come to mind, and now Michaels, our loss isn't only about talent but rather critical messaging and philosophy.

Last year, Harper's Bazaar asked the fabulous 5 -- Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford and Tatjana Patitz -- who made the 'Freedom' video to reflect back on that day.

Naomi Campbell

"I came to the set on the first day they were shooting. On my god, it was crazy! It was during the fashion collections, so I came straight from Paris, and I'd done 4 or 5 shows the day before and we finished at 2 o'clock in the morning. They didn't have the Eurostar then, so I took the 6 o'clock train to London and then went to the airport. I didn't sleep -- I went from the plane to the shower to the set. I was up all night working to work all night again! But it was great. I love George Michael, and I love all the girls who were in it, and the director, David Fincher, is a great filmmaker."

Tatjana Patitz

"All the models and I knew George Michael -- I think I had done a photo shoot with him at some point before. His manager contacted my agent to see if I could do the video. George wasn't in it -- he wasn't even on the set when I was there. David Fincher directed it, which was so exciting even then because he had already done one of Madonna's.

Linda Evangelista

"25 years later, this video -- and not my magazine covers -- is what people mention the most when they approach me on the street. It's pretty incredible."

Christy Turlington

"It was a whirlwind. I flew in from LA and drove straight to the set, so I was pretty delirious. Each of us filmed for a day on our own, except Linda and I overlapped on the last day because we had a scene together. They were long days. I don't recall any specific direction from David Fincher. He was focused on the lighting I recall. George was there the whole time."

Cindy Crawford

"I remember them sending me a Walkman so I could learn the words before I got to set. The studio was huge and dark and smoky. Someone explained to me that my first shot would be in a bathtub. They oiled me up and put me in an empty tub with a smoke machine to look like steam. I had to sit on an apple crate because you couldn't see me over the edge of the tub. My second shot was sitting on a chair with a towel on my head, and I kept thinking my part wasn't going to be that sexy. I watched the video recently, as I wanted to write about the whole supermodel phenomenon in my new book, 'Becoming', and my kids were like, "Hey, we know that song!" I think it stands the test of time and still looks amazing today. I like how David Fincher saw something different in each of us and tried to bring that out in the video."