For those of us still swooning after Tuesday’s Christian Dior Cruise Show in Rome, we might love Vogue Italia’s June 2025 fashion story ‘Cento Per Cento’ [100 percent] . . . or not. For certain at AOC, models Stella Hanan and Clara Denison represent resolute, independent-minded women in the mold of Dior’s fantabulous, for-the-ages artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Vogue Italia’s fashion story is styled by Luca Galasso, with images by Théo de Gueltz [IG]. / Makeup by Anthony Preel; hair by Eugene Souleiman

Having just confirmed Fendi for Vogue Italia’s ‘Cento Per Cento’ seconds before posting, my comments are very relevant. Of course, now I must add more commentary.

Whatever happens after yesterday’s unadulterated Roman magnificence and love letter from Chiuri, ‘Cento Per Cento’ applies to Chiuri’s arms-wide-open “hello universe, what’s up next?” showing on May 27, 2025.

In her honor, I had one myself — arms-wide-open, attaching myself to her creative rainbow with absolute confidence that she was about to deliver a jaw-dropping performance.

Not even all the self-appointed, nameless authorities at TFS will convince me I’ve made a fool of myself over Maria Grazia.

I’m a rock-solid Chiuri woman. Also one with such a full life, I don’t bore easily of platinum-level excellence. . Not Chiuri’s financial performance at Christian Dior. Nope.

All Roads Lead to Rome, But About Avignon . . .

I wrote somewhere in the past week that all roads are pointing to Italy in this moment. Actually, I’ve been saying that for six months. But Louis Vuitton Women’s Nicolas Ghesquière also had a blowout show in Avignon. He’s now on the four-person list who has brought me to tears.

Especially because I’ve been so deep in writing about the Crusades, the birth of humanism and now Pope Leo as a foil to MAGA Republicans, my jaw-dropped as low as it ever has, when Nicolas Ghesquière of Louis Vuitton Women roared into Avignon last week.

I hadn’t read any show notes or reviews, so when the show began, the music left me incredulous. Whether that was a punt or ‘planned for the last six months’ decision, Anne perked up with the emotional immediacy of Ghesquière’s opening statement.

His reminder that the Papacy was moved from Rome to Avignon from 1309 to 1377 shed new light on this human stories journey we storytellers are on. And he did it initially with location and music.

I’ve been waiting to speak after watching Louis Vuitton Cruise, for Tuesday to see Christian Dior in Rome. In between, I’ve watched the French Open.

Titan Brands and High Stakes Poker

With my absurdly intellectual approach to fashion, I see these two titan brands — Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior — as bookends in this critical moment. Most everything else in luxury world pales next to them.

The critics can carry on like know-it-alls, but I have enormous respect for the executive instincts, institutional and cultural knowledge and vast financial resources at LVMH.

They are also futurists — but smart people who can straddle seemingly opposing forces better than any group I know. That deep-knowledge design and marketing ability was on full display in Avignon.

LVMH is also adept at distinguishing between opposing forces of old and new and treating a brand bleeding to death in the emergency room with arsenic. LVMH does not make these mistakes.

Think of the endless Naomi Osaka comeback promises that never happen. Osaka went down in the first round at the French Open. It’s just sad at this point — for Naomi most of all.

Yes, the business headwinds are strong and no thanks to America for the mess we’ve created. But with the Ralph Lauren Polo design vibe installed and taking shape at Celine and the possibility that Fendi — with its strong-willed women — might expand that stable with a new addition, Roman fashion might not know what hit them.

I love Monsiuer AM, but this is a high-stakes poker game — one much bigger than he is.

That makes four LVMH powerhouses because I’ve already made peace with a post-Chiuri, Dior world and would hug the next guy. LVMH knows that if you give people enough time to get used to a new idea, a foreboding sky could go simply brilliant. Oh right, and if I remember Loro Piano edged out #3 Celine in new financial articles.

So five existing powerhouses, if Fendi will meet up with the divine, luxury-brand goddess, LVMH financial rainmaker for real.

It’s not that no one else can do Fendi. It’s that those clients absolutely devoted to Chiuri will still have a home at LVMH. She will be in Rome, where she has said she wants to be. Imagine the magic she can weave with her connections in the arts.

If I were LVMH this would be my plan — although all parties must agree. The most brilliant creatives are known to say “ENUF: I am the one who is bored with this luxury business party.”

Unless Trump’s America destroys the global economy in short order, or some insane dictator drops a nuclear bomb, LVMH may be holding an even stronger hand in this game of luxury chess moves, than even I had considered.

As I said — all roads lead to Italy, in my playbook — but Louis Vuitton basically said last week: “For crying out loud, Anne. You love that Notre Dame has Adam, Eve and Lilith installed. Do you seriously think that the French were not deeply involved in the launch of the Renaissance? We had to move the Papacy to Avignon, because Rome looked like a MAGA rally on January 6, 2021. Why don’t you write up that story, Anne!”

Trust me, guys. It’s all in the hopper. ~ Anne