For Love & Lemons Lights Up VS Holiday 2019 | Have the Angels Fallen to Earth?

For Love & Lemons returns to Victoria’s Secret for a Holiday 2019 collaboration. The campaign stars Ophelie Guillermand, Solange van Doorn and Tami Williams styled by Ashley Glorioso in a collection that includes lace bustiers, rhinestone embellished bras and high-waisted panties.

Zoey Grossman delivers a modern, poetic sensuality in the Love & Lemons romantic aesthetic that’s doing far more for Victoria’s Secret than VS is doing for the boarding school with heart LA brand..

Adesuwe Aighewi's Life Philosophy: I Can Feel Sexy While Claiming a Better World

Adesuwe Aighewi's Life Philosophy: I Can Feel Sexy While Claiming a Better World

Top model Adesuwa Aighewi covers the December 2019 issue of S Moda for El Pais. Aighewi is styled by Paula Delgado in images by Jack Waterlot./

AOC articulates Adesuwa Aighewi’s activist, documentary producer narrative constantly — as recently as last week — but we just learned a new reference from her S Moda interview. BTW, do you know that AOC tracks the intersection of black beauty, racism in fashion and beyond, colonialism, slavery in America and contemporary Africa in our GlamTribal channel”

‘How To Make a Slave’ by Willie Lynch

What AOC notes — and has never been exposed to in decades of work in civil rights — is her reference to ‘How To Make a Slave’ by Willie Lynch, an alleged slave owner in the West Indies. Looking for the best reference on this alleged, but heavily disputed speech, I will share this link for LongReads, because 1) it’s researched by librarians using the wayback machine, and it involves Kanye West. Denzel Washington quotes the letter at length in the 2007 film ‘The Great Debaters’.

Multiple voices in this article argue that the letter is a construction from the ‘60s or ‘70s, one created to confuse and disempower people of color. Rest assured that AOC will be investigating Aighewi’s reference to ‘How To Make a Slave’.

Baltimore Museum Will Acquire Work Only By Women Artists in 2020

Georgia O’Keeffe's "Pink Tulip" is on view at the Baltimore Museum of Art as part of its 2020 Vision initiative,which will be a year-long series of exhibitions and programs focused solely on female artists. (The Baltimore Museum of Art)

Women artists received a tough love message in a recent survey of art acquisitions by America’s museums. Only 11 percent of art acquired by 26 of America’s top museums for their permanent collections from 2008 to 2018, is the work of women artists.

The Baltimore Museum of Art announced a new drive for women artists, announcing that in 2020, the museum will only acquire work for its permanent collection that is produced by women.

The decision is an attempt by the museum to “truly be radical and emphasize to the arts communities that we are taking this initiative quite seriously,” and “re-correcting the canon,” chief curator Asma Naeem said.

The initiative comes as many museums in Washington and across America prepare to celebrate women artists in conjunction with the 100th anniversary of the 19th amendment and women’s right to vote. It’s also expected that the newly Democratic state government of Virginia will ratify the ERA (Equal Rights Amendment) early in 2020, pushing the amendment across the finish line with state ratifications. The time is beyond the original ratification dates, and the issue will surely be moved into the federal court system.

Celebrating women artists is great, but just as American women have learned with achieving the ERA, progress is very painful and slow.

“Curators say they struggle to convince their acquisition committees to pay up for work, particularly by older, overlooked female artists, who frequently lack an auction history that might be used to validate the asking price,” the investigative report on museum acquisitions stated.

AOC discovered a perfect example of this reality in our recent post about 99-year-old artist Luchita Hurtado.

“If you think about the word ‘artist,’ there’s a tacit assumption that it’s a male genius who is in fact the artist,” Naeem said. “That can be seen in the fact that we even call these ‘women artists.’ They’re not women artists. They’re artists.”

Artist Emma Kohlmann by Mariya Pepelanova for Eurowoman December 2019

Artist Emma Kohlmann by Mariya Pepelanova for Eurowoman December 2019

Artist Emma Kohlmann @meiow_mix is lensed by Mariya Pepelanova for the December 2019 issue of Eurowoman Denmark. Fashion editor Frederikke Raun styles Emma, who was interviewed in Amadeus Magazine in 2018.

Multimedia artist Emma Kohlmann exists in three different worlds: her quaint, quiet life in Northampton, Massachusetts; her social, gallery-hopping life in New York City and Los Angeles; and the indefinable otherworldly life she has created through her colorful and abstract watercolors. Each world is a telling reflection of Emma’s multifaceted personality and the disparate needs she has in order to fuel her creativity.

Emma’s watercolor world is playful and somewhat naive. It’s balanced, yet completely off-balanced. It’s intrinsically political, unwittingly powerful, and aesthetically stunning. It’s a way for the Massachusetts-based artist to retreat into a figurative world that doesn’t define an ideal form. Fascinated by the idea of constructing things that are beautiful, but are not attached to certain forms of identity, Emma sees the body as political. There are aspects that are visible and others that are hidden. There are parts that are celebrated and others that are obliterated, and she wants all of them to be acknowledged. Driven by her desire to deconstruct what is learned, her lively figures aren’t confined to traditional gender norms, and who or what these figures are is irrelevant. What’s most crucial for Emma is branching out of the typical male canon of nudity, transgressing the image, and remaining absolutely limitless in her presentation of such.

A 14.5 Billion Dollar Engagement Ring: Why Tiffany Should Say "Yes" to LVMH

A 14.5 Billion Dollar Engagement Ring: Why Tiffany Should Say "Yes" to LVMH

On October 28, 2019, Tiffany & Co confirmed that it had received an unsolicited but non-binding offer from LVMH to purchase its securities at $ 120 per share , an offer of $ 14.5 billion. What are the six main reasons that can push LVMH to a transaction of this magnitude? What impact would this acquisition have on the financial structure of the French group? What about the fact that Tiffany & Co's board is asking for an increase in the offer?

#WINNIEXSM Winnie Harlow by Steven Klein for Steve Madden | Choice Winnie Words @ ForbesWomen

AOC is slow to respond to Winnie Harlow’s sexy collab with Steve Madden. The WINNIE HARLOW X STEVE MADDEN project was revealed in September, 2019 in images by Steven Klein./ Hair by Hos Hounkpatin; makeup by Kabuki

The upside of being late with Winnie’s Steve Madden campaign is checking in with Forbes to read the November 7 post Why Winnie Harlow Doesn’t Believe In Role Models. As it turns out, Winnie is beautifully outspoken on just about every topic tossed her way by Moira Forbes. We share a sampling.

Prada 2020 Resort Ads, 'Seditious Simplicity' Flower Power

Prada 2020 Resort Ads, 'Seditious Simplicity' Flower Power

Global powerhouse brand Prada taps New York-based photographer Drew Vickers and Japanese photographer Keizo Kitajima for their Resort 2020 advertising campaign ‘Seditious Simplicity’. Olivier Rizzo styles the mega wattage list of campaign stars, with casting direction from Ashley Brokaw. They include Ashley Radjarame, Freek Iven, Freja Beha Erichsen, Lexi Boling, Kyla Ramsey, Sara Blomqvist, Stella Jones, Xiao Wen Ju and Yang Hao,

Like the H&M Holiday Campaign earlier this week, the Prada Resort 2020 Campaign is truly a global family message. The campaign, shot in London, Milan, Moscow, New York, Paris, Shanghai, and Tokyo, is anti-tech in a high tech world lacking in human connections. Prada puts one simple gesture front and center — the simple act of giving flowers.

The very act of carrying a flower bouquet does become seditious, with some choosing a flower bouquet with our their image and others choosing to go global, hugging an image of another human, unknown to them. In the case of Adut Akech and Kaia Gerber — neither model in the campaign — the two fast friends would surely choose each other images to carry.

Mary McCartney Eyes Sustainable Fashions for Vogue Poland November 2019

Mary McCartney Eyes Sustainable Fashions for Vogue Poland November 2019

Models Ewa Witkowska, Kamila Szczawińska and Maria Zakrzewska cover the November 2019 issue of Vogue Poland. Describing the shoot in the Polish countryside of Warmia and Mazury, Vogue Poland shares details of their real-world trajectories in the modeling world.

Designer Stella McCartney’s sister, English photographer Mary McCartney is behind the lens, photographing all-sustainable fashions in the cover story ‘For Nature’, style by Daniela Agnelli. McCartney is a Global Ambassador for Meat Free Mondays , cofounded by the McCartney family, and Green Monday, embracing a fully-sustainable lifestyle like her sister Stella. / Hair by Michal Bielecki; makeup by Aneta Kostrzewa

Botswana’s Okavango Delta Is Created by a Delicate Balance, but for How Much Longer?

Botswana’s Okavango Delta Is Created by a Delicate Balance, but for How Much Longer?

The Okavango Delta in northern Botswana is a mosaic of water paths, floodplains and arid islands. The delta sits in the Okavango river basin, which spans three African countries: Angola, Namibia and Botswana.

Because it’s an oasis, in a semi-arid area, it hosts a rich array of plants and attracts a huge variety of wildlife.

As a unique ecosystem, in 2014 it was placed on UNESCO’s World Heritage list and it is an iconic tourist destination, which generates 13% of Botswana’s GDP.

But it’s a fragile natural area. It’s controlled by deformations of the Earth’s crust over a long time (thousands to millions of years) and by annual water flows and evaporation. The size of the flooded delta from year to year varies between 3,500km² and 9,000km² because of weather fluctuations which control its water supply.

Any change to the processes that form the delta will have an impact on the wildlife and local economic activities. Its grassy floodplains are food for grazing animals in the dry period. Losses of this habitat will cause declines in wildlife and livestock. It’s therefore imperative to understand what creates and sustains the delta for the future management of the system.

Diane von Furstenberg Holiday 2019 Gathering by Coliena Rentmeester

Diane von Furstenberg Holiday 2019 Gathering by Coliena Rentmeester

Diane von Furstenberg Holiday 2019 Gathering by Coliena Rentmeester

Designer Diane von Furstenberg hosts a pre-Holiday 2019 party, inviting artist Anh Duong, and models Chiara Scelsi, Lameka Fox, Sara Ziff and granddaughter Talita von Furstenberg to join her for a toast to women’s progress. Photographer Coliena Rentmeester captures the good vibrations for Diane von Furstenberg Holiday 2019./ Hair by Gavin Harwin; makeup by Talia Sparrow

Diane von Furstenberg Holiday 2019 Gathering by Coliena Rentmeester

Artist, actor, socialite and friend of many powerful people, France-born Anh Duong joined Long Island East End artists Jack Ceglic, Cindy Sherman, Chuck Close, and ex, Julian Schnabel in “Selfies and Portraits of the East End” in summer 2019 at East Hampton’s Guild Hall. Erin Riley wrote about Duong in How Anh Duong & Other East End Artists are Redefining the Selfie in Hamptons Magazine.

Speaking of her life on the East End, Hamptons Riley wrote:

“When I first moved to the Hamptons, I didn’t really understand the beauty of it,” says Duong, who spent childhood summers in Spain, Italy, and the South of France with her Spanish mother and Vietnamese father. “But over the years, I’ve grown to love it completely. People always talk about the light, and it’s true.”

After her move to New York, Duong became a popular presence on the art and fashion scenes. In 2006 she married architect Barton Hubbard Quillen and moved into an old fisherman’s house in East Hampton. Although the couple went their separate ways, Duong kept the home and converted the barn into a painting studio.

‘Lazy Point’ by Ahn Duong

Two Traps Where Woolly Mammoths Were Driven to Their Deaths Found in Mexico

Two Traps Where Woolly Mammoths Were Driven to Their Deaths Found in Mexico

In the neighborhood of Tultepec, just north of Mexico City, plans were recently underway to convert a patch of land into a garbage dump. But during preparatory excavations, workers at the site found themselves digging up woolly mammoth bones—hundreds of them. Over the course of ten months of archaeological and anthropological work, experts were able to piece together a grim picture of what appears to have been a prehistoric hunting site. The team had, according to the Associated Press, stumbled upon two large man-made traps—pits where hunters drove woolly mammoths to their deaths.

Researchers with Mexico's National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) announced the discovery this week, saying that it lends “unprecedented context” to experts’ understanding of how ancient humans hunted woolly mammoths. The pits date to 15,000 years ago, each measuring 5.5 feet deep and 82 feet long, reports CNN's Jack GuyInside the pits were 824 mammoth bones, among them eight skulls, five jaws, a hundred vertebrae and 179 ribs. Experts say the remains correspond to at least 14 individual mammoths. Bones belonging to a camel and a horse were also found.

According to INAH researchers, the pits may have been vital tools for ensnaring a formidable prey; woolly mammoths, which went extinct some 4,000 years ago, could stand more than 11 feet tall and weigh up to eight tons. Experts think that groups of hunters, perhaps numbering between 20 and 30 people, would separate one individual from the herd and drive it towards the pits, possibly frightening it with torches and branches. Once inside the trap, the animal would be killed.

Julianne Moore Talks Playing Gloria Steinem, Talking Down the NRA in WSJ Magazine November 2019

Julianne Moore Talks Playing Gloria Steinem, Talking Down the NRA in WSJ Magazine November 2019

Actor, activist and children’s author known for portraying emotionally troubled women in many of her over 70 films, Julianne Moore is among the cover stars in WSJ Magazine’s November 2019 Innovator’s issue. Moore, who shares the spotlight with seven other “trailblazing talents” is styled by Alex White in images by Lachlan Bailey./ Hair by Serge Normant, makeup by Mark Carrasquillo

BOF Interviews Rising Super Photographer Ethan James Green

Chantal Fernandez interviews rising star photographer Ethan James Green for Business of Fashion. The interviews seems accessible free, although you might have to register for the newsletter.

Green is clearly a young man with tremendous self confidence and self awareness, transitioning from being a model for brands like Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs to a position behind the lens. Why do I say self-confidence and determination? Because Green racked up $150,000 in debt working with small magazines to build his portfolio.

A Fashion Industry in Flux

Fernandez raises a valid point about Ethan James Green getting an opening for success with the sexual conduct allegations around several prominent fashion industry photographers including Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier and Bruce Weber — to cite three majors.

I will add, though, that female photographers and photographers of every skin color and heritage are also on the rise, in an effort to address an industry dominated by white male photographers. 50 years after a wave of activism and legislation designed to not find ourselves in a white male dominated world in 2019 clearly, visibly failed to make a dent in those efforts. The Internet has made this possible, with influencers and websites like AOC determined to change this dominate of white men, just as we are determined to change the hue of models beyond white women.

AOC regularly bends an extra 90 degrees for poc and female photographers, although we’ve raved about Ethan James Green for a long while and celebrate his success. Read on at BOF and review a large portion of Green’s portfolio in his AOC Photographer Archives.

These recent works will get you started.

Vogue Portugal Shoots Grace Anderson At Cultural Association Boes and Merdules

Vogue Portugal Shoots Grace Anderson At Cultural Association Boes and Merdules

Model Grace Anderson is styled by Pablo Patane in unusual and exotic images by Luis Monteiro for Vogue Portugal./ Hair by Salvo Peluso; makeup by Fausto Cavaleri

The location for the shoot is The Cultural Association Boes and Merdules in Ottana, Sardinia Italy. The group was established in 1973 with the intention of promoting carnival folk traditions. The ‘About us’ page image is all men, but let’s not jump to conclusions. For my own self-education this may be an important link in stories of human migration. On the rare chance that your interest is as keen as mine on this topic, I’m starting here: Genomic history of the Sardinian population. I love Vogue Portugal’s quiet but relentless focus on identity and the roots of our humanity.

New York City Foie Gras Ban Awaits Mayor's Pen | Alternatives Do Exist

Image Credits: Top Photo by Gary Bendig on Unsplash; Bottom Culinaria.

It appears that New York will ban foie gras but now on a three-year phase-in schedule to help upstate farmers retool, writes Food & Wine. Down about six paragraphs, I note that Councilwoman Carlina Rivera -- the bill's sponsor -- references an alternative way of feeding the geese, which is considered to be acceptable. She said

"I also encourage all foie gras-producing farms, many of which purport to use sustainable practices, to pursue other methods of foie gras production, such as those done by farmers in Spain that employ different methods using highly dense foods.” '

So foie gras doesn't have to be banned as a food, suggests Rivera. It's being banned over a force-feeding process that is generally considered to be disgusting, the most involved one becomes in understanding the story behind the delicacy. Apparently, there’s an alternative feeding process for the geese used in Spain that is much more humane.

Note that restaurants can "give away" the foie gras, based on the new law. But it's interesting to know that there is an alternative, more humane process that could end this entire food fight. I believe this same philosophy of fundamental to the functioning of a democracy, so this article has me reflecting.

Long ago activist ,upstate New York Blue Hill Chef Dan Barber launched the conversation around an ‘ethical’ fois gras alternative and the issue has received considerable attention. Listen to Barber speak to the issue and see related reading links below.

Dan Barber’s Foie Gras TED Talk

New Ancient Ape Species Rewrites the Story of Bipedalism and Humans

New Ancient Ape Species Rewrites the Story of Bipedalism

When Madelaine Böhme, a researcher at the University of Tübingen in Germany, unearthed the partial skeleton of an ancient ape at the Hammerschmiede clay pit in Bavaria, she knew she was looking at something special. Compared to fragments, an intact partial skeleton can tell paleoanthropologists about a creature’s body proportions and how its anatomy might have functioned. A relative newcomer to the field and a paleoclimatologist by trade, Böhme enlisted Begun’s expertise in analyzing the fossil ape.

Böhme and colleagues determined that the bones they found came from a dryopithecine ape, an extinct ancestor of humans and great apes that once lived in the Miocene epoch. The fossils are approximately 11.6 million years old and came from at least four individual apes, including one partial skeleton. The team described the newfound ancestor, named Danuvius guggenmosi, in a study published today in Nature.

‘D. guggenmosi’ was likely a small primate about the size of baboon, with long arms like a bonobo. The creature had flexible elbows and strong hands capable of grasping, which suggests that it could have swung from tree to tree like a modern great ape. But the similarities with known apes stop there. The animal’s lower limbs have much more in common with human anatomy. With extended hips and knees, D. guggenmosi was capable of standing with a straighter posture than that of living African apes, and its knees and ankles were adapted to bear weight. The animal’s locomotion would have therefore shared similarities with both human and ape movement, and D. guggenmosi may have been able to navigate the forest by swinging from tree limbs and walking on two legs.

Nike Signs (No) Arctic Shipping Pledge, Joining H&M Group, Kering, PVH Corp

The truth is that many large corporations have no problem that the Arctic is melting. They want the new shipping route as a terrible example of corporate greed and self-interest. Still, corporate interests are salivating to ship through the Arctic year-round.

It’s very important that NIKE has teamed up with the Ocean Conservancy to launch the Arctic Shipping Corporate Pledge, inviting businesses and industry to join in a commitment against shipping through the Arctic Ocean.

Ships are responsible for more than 18 percent of some air pollutants. It also includes greenhouse gas emissions. The International Maritime Organization (IMO) estimates that carbon dioxide emissions from shipping were equal to 2.2% of the global human-made emissions in 2012 and expects them to rise 50 to 250 percent by 2050 if no action is taken.

The Arctic Shipping Corporate Pledge invites companies to commit to not intentionally send ships through this fragile Arctic ecosystem. Today's signatories include companies Bestseller, Columbia, Gap Inc., H&M Group, Kering, Li & Fung, PVH Corp., and ocean carriers CMA CGM, Evergreen, Hapag-Lloyd and Mediterranean Shipping Company.

"The dangers of trans-Arctic shipping routes outweigh all perceived benefits and we cannot ignore the impacts of greenhouse gas emissions from shipping on our ocean," says Janis Searles Jones, CEO of Ocean Conservancy. "Ocean Conservancy applauds Nike for recognizing the real bottom line here is a shared responsibility for the health of the Arctic—and believes the announcement will spur much-needed action to prevent risky Arctic shipping and hopes additional commitments to reduce emissions from global shipping will emerge." 

For Nike to take a lead in advancing and promoting awareness of the Arctic Shipping Corporate Pledge is an excellent victory. With all the moves to track how products are made and transported, we can check a product on our phones and see if it's been transported through the Arctic. If the environment means enough to us -- this is where consumer power comes into action. But it takes business leaders like Nike to talk to other corporate leaders on some of these topics. At least, it's a collaborative effort of business and activism like this one.

Phoebe Waller-Bridge Covers Vogue US December, Lensed by Ethan James Green

Phoebe Waller-Bridge Covers Vogue US December, Lensed by Ethan James Green

Phoebe Waller-Bridge covers the December 2019 cover of American Vogue. Ethan James Green is behind the lens with styling by Tonne Goodman. Lauren Collins conducts the interview.

Phoebe Waller-Bridge is a high roller right now. Season two of ‘Killing Eve’, which she developed and serves as executive producer is winning rave reviews on BBC America. Season two of her risqué British sitcom ‘Fleabag’ is on Amazon PRIME just won three Emmys including Best Comedy, Best Actress in a Comedy Series, and Best Writing for a Comedy Series.

Amazon Prime Video locked down an exclusive overall deal reportedly for three years and valued in the “mid-eight-figure range.” The Vogue article pegs it at $20 million, lower than other estimates. Whatever the number, Waller-Bridge is one of the most sought-after creators alive right now.

Queen Elizabeth II Says "Faux Fur Only Going Forward"

Queen Elizabeth II via W Magazine

Queen Liz is onboard: no more fur. Faux fur only on very cold days. Her Majesty has already had all the mink trim -- and any other animal fur -- removed from her most favorite coats, replaced with faux fur.

Stella McCartney has a marvelous new faux fur that is impossible to distinguish from the original — although the Queen’s longtime personal adviser and official dresser Angela Kelly says that Her Majesty’s preference is to move away from fur entirely.

The Humane Society International formally announced that it's "thrilled" before calling on the British government to make the U.K. the first country in the world to ban the sale of fur. The UK branch of PETA, hardly known for low-volume press messages on the subject of animal rights, tweeted "we're raising a glass of gin and Dubonnet to the Queen’s compassionate decision to go fur-free".

After a quick sip, the organization then suggested that perhaps the Queen’s Guard, known worldwide for their enormous bearskin hats could follow Her Majesty’s lead. PETA has been lobbying for faux fur hats to replace the current ones for almost three years, even sending her prototypes from Only Me in 2017, writes Town and Country.

We all curtsy to a modern woman very concerned about protecting heritage and protocol, while keeping British royalty relevant with evolving values.

Met Gala Theme 2020: 'About Time: Fashion and Duration' Honors's Virginia Woolf's 'Orlando'

Surreal, David Bailey, 1980 Photo: Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photo © David Bailey

Andrew Bolton, Head Curator of the New York Met’s Art’s Costume Institute has announced the theme for next May’s event. Acknowledging the advent of a new decade of the 2020’s, Bolton announced the next Costume Exhibit exhibition called ‘About Time: Fashion and Duration’.

According to the New York Times’ Vanessa Friedman, this year’s theme is “inspired in part by the novels of Virginia Woolf and the theories of the early-20th-century French philosopher Henri Bergson, whose admittedly somewhat obscure but also important musings on time posited it as a constantly mutating stream rather than a series of discrete moments.”

“I wanted to do an exhibition focused on the collection, but not a traditional masterworks exhibition,” Bolton said. “Something that connects to the zeitgeist, and what people are talking about now.” Then he had an idea. And then he thought, “it’s about time.”

“Fashion is indelibly connected to time,” Bolton continued, talking to the Times who announced the upcoming exhibit. “It not only reflects and represents the spirit of the times, but it also changes and develops with the times.”

The Clock, Sarah Moon, 1999Credit...Sarah Moon, via The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Friedman says the upcoming 2020 show “may be the most conceptually abstract blockbuster the Costume Institute has attempted, toggling between what Mr. Bolton calls the ‘objective’ time of the calendar and the ‘subjective’ time of creativity – will take the form of 160 pieces of women’s fashion created over the past 150 years.

This topic is front and center in the fashion industry, as creativity is increasingly subordinated to the demands of more, more, more and give-it-to-me-now collusion of business and consumers.

The Times notes that the show, itself, will be designed by Esmeralda ‘Es’ Devlin, who was responsible for the sets for Beyoncé’s “Formation” tour, as well as many Royal Opera House productions. The catalog will contain a new short story written in the show’s honor by Michael Cunningham, the author of the “Mrs. Dalloway”-inspired novel “The Hours.”

The show will be chaired by Nicolas Ghesquière of Louis Vuitton, who is also underwriting the May 4, 2020 event. Ghesquière will be joined by Vuitton ambassador Emma Stone, actor Meryl Streep , who starred in ‘The Hours’, Hamilton’s Lin-Manuel Miranda and Anna Wintour, of course.