BOF Interviews Rising Super Photographer Ethan James Green

Chantal Fernandez interviews rising star photographer Ethan James Green for Business of Fashion. The interviews seems accessible free, although you might have to register for the newsletter.

Green is clearly a young man with tremendous self confidence and self awareness, transitioning from being a model for brands like Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs to a position behind the lens. Why do I say self-confidence and determination? Because Green racked up $150,000 in debt working with small magazines to build his portfolio.

A Fashion Industry in Flux

Fernandez raises a valid point about Ethan James Green getting an opening for success with the sexual conduct allegations around several prominent fashion industry photographers including Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier and Bruce Weber — to cite three majors.

I will add, though, that female photographers and photographers of every skin color and heritage are also on the rise, in an effort to address an industry dominated by white male photographers. 50 years after a wave of activism and legislation designed to not find ourselves in a white male dominated world in 2019 clearly, visibly failed to make a dent in those efforts. The Internet has made this possible, with influencers and websites like AOC determined to change this dominate of white men, just as we are determined to change the hue of models beyond white women.

AOC regularly bends an extra 90 degrees for poc and female photographers, although we’ve raved about Ethan James Green for a long while and celebrate his success. Read on at BOF and review a large portion of Green’s portfolio in his AOC Photographer Archives.

These recent works will get you started.

Phoebe Waller-Bridge Covers Vogue US December, Lensed by Ethan James Green

Phoebe Waller-Bridge Covers Vogue US December, Lensed by Ethan James Green

Phoebe Waller-Bridge covers the December 2019 cover of American Vogue. Ethan James Green is behind the lens with styling by Tonne Goodman. Lauren Collins conducts the interview.

Phoebe Waller-Bridge is a high roller right now. Season two of ‘Killing Eve’, which she developed and serves as executive producer is winning rave reviews on BBC America. Season two of her risqué British sitcom ‘Fleabag’ is on Amazon PRIME just won three Emmys including Best Comedy, Best Actress in a Comedy Series, and Best Writing for a Comedy Series.

Amazon Prime Video locked down an exclusive overall deal reportedly for three years and valued in the “mid-eight-figure range.” The Vogue article pegs it at $20 million, lower than other estimates. Whatever the number, Waller-Bridge is one of the most sought-after creators alive right now.

FKA twigs Poses in 'Sword and Sorcery' by Ethan James Green for Vogue US October 2019

FKA twigs Poses in 'Sword and Sorcery' by Ethan James Green for Vogue US October 2019

British singer and songwriter FKA twigs is styled by Camilla Nickerson in ‘Sword and Sorcery’ lensed by Ethan James Green for American Vogue October 2019./ Hair by Julien d’Ys; makeup by Susie Sobol

Rihanna on Luxury, Politics, Guns in Ethan James Green Vogue US November 2019 Cover Story

Rihanna on Luxury, Politics, Guns in Ethan James Green Vogue US November 2019 Cover Story

Rihanna’s vision of luxury is “aesthetically capricious, casually category-busting, impossibly cool”, writes Abby Aguirre, in her American Vogue November 2019 cover story about the mega wattage, 31-year-old woman musician and activist, beauty, lingerie and athleisure mogul, and now head of her own Fenty maison, in partnership with LVMH. Tonne Goodman styles Rihanna in superb images by Ethan James Green.

Ethan James Green Flashes 'Turning Heads' Fall Fashion Trends for Vogue US October 2019

Ethan James Green Flashes 'Turning Heads' Fall Fashion Trends for Vogue US October 2019

Models Eniola Abioro, Faretta, Fei Fei Sun, Jill Kortleve and Mayowa Nicholas are busy ‘Turning Heads’, styled by Phyllis Posnick. Photographer Ethan James Green captures the fashion scene for American Vogue October 2019./ Hair by Orlando Pita; makeup by Francelle Daly

Ethan James Green Captures Iris Strubegger in 'Vienese Waltz for WSJ Magazine September 2019

Ethan James Green Captures Iris Strubegger in 'Vienese Waltz for WSJ Magazine September 2019

Model Iris Strubeggerer is styled by Anastasia Barbieri in ‘Viennese Waltz’. Photographer Ethan James Green sets up shop in the art nouveau district of Austria’s capital for WSJ Magazine September 2019./ Hair by Shon Ju; makeup by Miranda Joyce

Lanvin's Bruno Sialelli Sets Sail At Lanvin With 'Mystic Pilgrims' Gender Fluid Images By Ethan James Green

Lanvin's Bruno Sialelli Sets Sail At Lanvin With 'Mystic Pilgrims' Gender Fluid Images By Ethan James Green

Models Emily Driver, Jeranimo van Russel, Mariana Barcelos, Mateusz Chmielewski and Ugbad are styled by Carlos Nazario in ‘Mystic Pilgrims’ — a first look at 31-year-old Bruno Sialelli’s vision for the brand. Photographer Ethan James Green captures the model quintet for Lanvin, the oldest French fashion house in continuous existence.

Raquel + Imaan Define Gorgeosity In 'Natural Selection' By Ethan James Green For Vogue US

Raquel + Imaan Define Gorgeosity In 'Natural Selection' By Ethan James Green For Vogue US

Raquel Zimmermann and Imaan Hammam are styled by Camilla Nickerson in gorgeous visual opulence in ‘Natural Selection’. Photographer Ethan James Green captures the queenly magnificence for Vogue US July 2019.

Eye: Ethan James Green Delivers 'Young New York', Portraits Of People Unleashing Cultural New Wave

Eye: Ethan James Green Delivers 'Young New York', Portraits Of People Unleashing Cultural New Wave

‘Young New York’, Ethan James Green’s first monograph, presents a selection of striking portraits of New York’s millennial scene-makers, a gloriously diverse cast of models, artists, nightlife icons, queer youth, and gender binary–flouting muses of the fashion world and beyond. Under the mentorship of the late David Armstrong, Green developed a sensitive and confident style and an intense connection with his subjects; his luminous black-and-white portraits, many taken in Corlears Hook Park on the Lower East Side, bring to mind Diane Arbus’s midcentury studies of gender nonconformists. Although he often shoots on commission for fashion brands and magazines, for ‘Young New York’, Green photographed his close friends and community for more than three years, and his humanist approach transcends the trends of the moment.

Model and actress Hari Nef, one of Green’s frequent subjects, “In Ethan’s world, the kids who inspire him ought to be (and are) the subjects of his work. Ethan is an artist among so-called image makers.”

In a new interview with Vogue Italia, Green explains his first connection with Nef in New York at the Up & Down nightclub. It came at a time when he was new in New York, didn’t have many friends, and didn’t even admit that he was gay.

Ethan James Green Captures Marlon Teixeira in 'Jungle' for Vogue Hommes SS-2019

Ethan James Green Captures Marlon Teixeira in 'Jungle' for Vogue Hommes SS-2019

Brazilian-born model Marlon Teixeira exudes an energy anchored in nature’s fundamental essence, styled by Anastasia Barbieri in spring 2019’s key, casual pieces. Ethan James Green captures Teixeira in ‘Jungle’ for Vogue Hommes Spring/Summer 2019./ Hair by Laurent Philippon; makeup by Karim Rahman

Imaan Hammam Poses In 'Goddess Rising' Lensed By Ethan James Green For WSJ Magazine March 2019

Dutch Moroccan stunner Imaan Hammam is styled by Anastasia Barbieri in long, flowing gowns and linear elegance. Ethan James Green captures Imaan in the appropriately-named ‘Goddess Rising’, lensed in the Yucatan for WSJ Magazine March 2019./ Hair by Laurent Philippon; makeup by Karim Rahman

Ethan James Green Eyes Anok Yai, Adut Akech & Eniola Abioro For i-D Magazine Fall 2018

Ethan James Green Eyes Anok Yai, Adut Akech & Eniola Abioro For i-D Magazine Fall 2018

Fall 2018 i-D Magazine cover girls Anok Yai and Adut Akech (above) are joined by 19-year-old Nigerian new girl Eniola Abioro (next), a former teacher at Grace Academy school in Lagos, in striking images by Ethan James Green. The photographer also flashed Anok's cover in i-Ds "imagine you could be the one to change it all' issue. Alastair McKimm styles the trio in what becomes a graphically striking, high-fashion editorial. / Hair by Cyndia Harvey; makeup by Kanako Takase

Also included below, Adut's cover is shot by Campbell Eddy. The third cover girl, rising star Adesuwa Aighewi,  is lensed by Oliver Hadlee Pearch

Ethan James Green Eyes 'In India, Dreamy Fall Fashion For Him and Her' For WSJ Magazine September 2018

WSJ Magazine takes us to "the majestic city of Maheshwar, where tailored pieces from the fall collections suited for him or her bring worldly flair to a dreamy journey." Ethan James Green is behind the lens for "In India, Dreamy Fall Fashion For Him and Her", with styling by Anastasia Barbieri and set design by Julia Wagner

Edie Campbell Blooms In 'A Fleur de Peau' By Ethan James Green For Vogue Paris March 2018

Top model Edie Campbell is styled by Anastasia Barbieri in lavish garden prints with a Diana Vreeland vibe in 'A fleur de Peau'. Photographer Ethan James Green captures the loveliness for Vogue Paris March 2018./ Hair by Cyndia Harvey; makeup by Petros Petrohilos

Ethan James Green Eyes Sleek Separates 'Field of Dreams' For Dazed Magazine Fall 2017

Ethan James Green Eyes Sleek Separates 'Field of Dreams' For Dazed Magazine Fall 2017

Models Ajak Deng, Angok Mayen, Hannelore Knuts, Lucas Cristino, Rose Cordero, Ubah Hassan, and Zhengyang Zhang are styled by Robbie Spencer in 'Field of Dreams'. Photographer Ethan James Green makes the style capture for Dazed Magazine Fall 2017./ Hair by Shingo Shibata; makeup by Dick Page

Ethan James Green Flashes An Eccentric, Big Street-Cred Cast For Helmut Lang Fall 2017

Ethan James Green Flashes An Eccentric, Big Street-Cred Cast For Helmut Lang Fall 2017

In Spring 2017 Helmut Lang's CEO Andrew Rosen announced that the brand was in a state of transformation. Rosen did not tap a permanent creative director, turning instead to Isabella Burley, editor-in-chief of London's Dazed magazine, to become Helmut Lang's first editor-in-residence, with a focus on revamping the Helmut Lang digital footprint.

In advance of New York Fashion week -- more than a month out -- it's not clothes that will give us an eye to the forward vision of Helmut Lang. The Fall/Winter 2018 ad campaign marks the beginning of the brand's 'reset'.

Shot by the talented Ethan James Green, the cast of characters includes Alek Wek, former porn star Traci Lords, transgender model Dara, the artist and director Larry Clark, and Amariyanna Copeny -- aka Mari Copeny --, a 10-year-old better know as "Little Miss Flint," who has served as the face of the Flint, Michigan water crisis. 

Isabelle Burley's first creative design pick Shayne Oliver, designer behind Hood by Air, created a special collection of ready-to-wear plus accessories, that will debut in September. Oliver, too, is in the ad campaign. Stylist Melanie Ward, a Helmut Lang 'original', appears with her brother and Anthony Ward. This fresh cast of characters strategy also includes Kembra PfahlerUnlocking The TruthYoshiAlanie QuinonesAurel HaizeGrace GeeIan IsiahGogo Graham and Sohyun Jun.

The artistic result is a memorable cast of progressive thinkers, creative icons and a wide-range of talent that underscores not only brand identity in the digital age, but a much larger expansion of fashion's wings in the age of Trump.

When all the values held to be dear by the fashion industry are under assault, it's time for fashion to get street-smart and involved. Forget whether the season's color is pink or blue. The larger question is who are you as a brand? Are you with us or not? #RESIST! ~ Anne

Grace Bol Is Lensed By Ethan James Green In 'But Don't Try and Fool Me' For Re-Edition Magazine F/W 2016

Model Grace Bol delivers an editorial that resonates and makes a political statement about fashion and beauty standards. Robbie Spencer styles Grace in 'But Don't Try and Fool Me', lensed by Ethan James Green for Re-Edition Magazine Fall/Winter 2016./ Makeup by Pep Gay; hair by Shingo Shibata