To say that “third time’s a charm” for newly-appointed Chloé [IG] creative director Chemena Kamali [IG] implies that things didn’t go so well in her first two stints at the luxury house. Not so.

Kamali could write a book about the history of Chloé, having worked there as an obsessed junior designer under Phoebe Philo and then again under Clare Waight Keller. Everyone says that Kamali understands the soul of the brand.

By now you know about the boho ruffles and hyper-femininity that defines the Fall 2024 maiden voyage collection under Kamali — reviewed here with the large campaign drop of images by Sam Rock [IG].

Chloé Spells J-O-Y

Just three letters spelled out the new day at Chloé: J-O-Y! The world is in serious need of a bit of joy, and Chemena Kamali is here for the moment — along with her buckets of design and marketing talent.

Do not be deceived by the light-hearted message of the first collection. Those fluttering mini skirts or oversized, filmy, caftan-inspired dresses are worn with thigh-high boots.

Nostalgia Triggers Memory But Anchors Today

In addressing the mood of her first-collection as creative director, Kamali cited founder Gaby Aghion’s progressive vision for the brand. She [Aghion] had the unique ability to “look into the past and the future simultaneously.” Explaining her own empathethic design focus in her first big Chloé moment, Kamali told the press: “It’s a sense of nostalgia that takes something which triggers a memory and makes you feel something today. This is very much to me what Chloé is about.”

Chloé Fall/Winter 2024 campaign models include Jessica Miller, Kristine Lindseth, Liya Kebede, Ornella Umutoni, Saphira Krumhaar, Shuqi Lan and Suvi Riggs.

Besides Kamali and Rock, the talent team includes director Frank Lebon, creative direction by Lina Kutsovskaya, art direction by Katharina Korbjuhn, set design by Mila Taylor-Young; hair by Holli Smith and makeup by Lauren Parsons.