Eadem co-founders: Alice Lin Glover and marie kouadio amouzame.

In March, Fast Company released its new list of ‘The 10 Most Innovative Beauty Companies of 2022.’ It comes as no surprise that L’Oreal, Dior and a Unilever brand Hourglass Cosmetics are on the list. But it’s the new beauty brand EADEM, that’s sitting in first place.

AOC is devoted to promoting entrepreneurs and creatives of color, speaking out on racial disparities in America since 2007. Like every other journey we’ve taken on AOC, the research thread on EADEM prompts more questions than it resolves.

It’s me — Anne — who is playing catchup here, about the business of black beauty and women of color beauty products generally.

EADEM’s story can and should be an All-American one. It’s the America that I embrace and advocate for every day of my life. The truth is that my view of EADEM’s accomplishments is more tempered now, than a few years ago.

For example, I was downright shocked in 2020 to see billboards of skin-whitening products along the roads in Africa. Ghana is a hotbed of creativity in the world of fashion and yet, skin whitening products are everywhere and easy to buy. Filled with harmful to humans ingredients, many of these products have ties to large, global corporations.

My point is that while I have a personal commitment to help EADEM co-founders Marie Kouadio Amouzame and Alice Lin Glover succeed, I’m not kidding myself about the challenges they face. The more I dig into this beauty business issue of colorism, the deeper the hole is, for me to understand all the complications defining it.

EADEM’s co-founders Amouzame and Lin Glover bonded in the Google marketing department. Both women were children of immigrant parents—from the Ivory Coast and Taiwan respectively— and they loved beauty products. In 2018 they started EADEM, a lifestyle blog geared towards women of color.

EADEM’s First Focus Is on Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is the number one skin concern among women of color. Melanin plays a big role in how the skin functions, and it reacts differently to inflammation, UV light, hydration and even active skincare ingredients. What EADEM is wrestling with in the product development universe is far more complex than sunscreen products for women of color.

To their credit, the co-founders have taken a slow boat in bringing their products to market, experimenting with multiple product formulations and a high-degree of self-education in creating their first two products. In the words of the founders:

"This online store's goal is to offer a wide range of beauty products to provide quality products that reflect the unique needs of black women.
Currently, two products with unique Smart Melanin™ Beauty technology are available online: Milky Marvel Dark Spot Serum and Cloud Cushion Airy Brightening Moisturizer "

Launching a new beauty brand in the middle of a global pandemic, with New York City in lockdown is a daunting goal. Consider that both women were pregnant, adding another dose of reality that got my attention and admiration.

Awards Galore

Not only is Eadem sitting on top of the Fast Company Most Innovative Beauty Companies 2022 list. It has garnered significant support in the beauty industry. More awards include:

Glossier

The new beauty brand was a recipient of a $30,000 grant from Glossier earmarked for black-owned businesses. The grant was used to create outstanding marketing on the EADEM website, timed with the release of their first products at Sephora in May 2021. Glossier also provided 1 to 1 mentoring to the EADEM founders. The level of marketing savvy coming out of EADEM is platinum grade. Just look at the website.

Sephora Accelerate

EADEM was accepted into Sephora Accelerate, “dedicated to building a community of innovative, inspirational founders in beauty.” The beauty retailer is focused on incubating founders who are people of color after signing in 2020 the 15 Percent Pledge, created by Aurora James of Brother Vellies.

For background, Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez attended the 2021 postponed Met Gala with Aurora James. The Congresswoman created memorable controversy wearing a striking ‘Tax the Rich’ gown by the designer. And Jordan Casteel painted Aurora James for the September 2020 cover of Vogue: Meet Vogue September 2020 Covers Artists Kerry James Marshall, Jordan Casteel.

Neutrogena® and Johnson & Johnson Innovation

EADEM also won the Black Innovators in Skin Health QuickFire Challenge! launched by Neutrogena® and Johnson & Johnson Innovation.

McKinsey Global Consulting Weighs in on Black Representation in Beauty Industry

In mid-June, McKinsey Quarterly’s latest report hit my inbox, titled Black Representation in the Beauty Industry. One of my closest friends — a gorgeous Black woman — had talked to me about EADEM. As I always say when these coincidences occur: the universe is speaking to me.

The reality of the McKinsey statistics and consumer interviews was sobering, even for Anne of Carversville.

Everybody knows AOC is not new to the discussion of what racial equity looks like in the fashion industry. Let’s just say that I expected better results in McKinsey’s deep dive into black representation and those of all people of color in the beauty industry. For example:

Black brands make up only 2.5 percent of revenue in the beauty industry. Yet, Black consumers are responsible for 11.1 percent of beauty spending.

After all these decades of ‘racial progress’, that’s a very sobering, sad statistic.

AOC is confident that models of color representation has improved in the beauty industry since the broadcast-worldwide murder of George Floyd on May 25, 2020. If you look at the timing of the beauty industry initiatives outlined here — the awards that EADEM has won — without George Floyd’s death, this might not have happened.

We all need to give George Floyd an award for for his deep suffering in a death that triggered demands for real change. AOC continually advocated for these changes before and after Floyd’s death, but I am haunted by the disturbing idea that without Floyd’s death, I might not be writing about EADEM.

I do believe that we’re making major progress in the world of fashion in our response to demands for broader representation in our industry — nowhere like in the LVMH brands. The beauty industry moves much more slowly and with more complex products.

Coincidentally [or not], the untimely death of Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton has left many of us reeling over the absurdity of his loss. It entered this very dialogue — a three-way with myself, EADEM and their PR person. We all know about Virgil, and in our dialogues, I am not the only person in this triad leaning on LVMH. Of course, other luxury brands came up, too, as examples of progress in diversity and racial progress. But LVMH and Louis Vuitton specifically — because of Virgil — was always the brand we referenced the most.

Two Steps Forward; One Step Back

Louis Vuitton opened its first free-standing restaurant in the world on June 17, 2022 in St. Tropez. It’s a joint venture with Paris Chef Mory Sacko, who is French by birth. Sacko’s mother is from the Ivory Coast, grew up in Senegal and met his father in Mali. The result is the Michelin-star MoSuke restaurant in Paris’ 14th arrondissement and now a business alliance with Louis Vuitton.

Whispering ‘progress’ under my breath over Restaurant Mory Sacko at Louis Vuitton, I opened the McKinsey report on Black representation in the beauty industry.

A digital thunderstorm sent pellets of hail all over my joy, with this report. I was angry, frankly. Damn mad!

After reading these dismal facts about the buying power of women of color and beauty products that meet their needs, more information and self-education is required. We will summarize the McKinsey report this week.

The good news is that EADEM has a significant business opportunity in the beauty sector. AOC did speak to EADEM co-founders Marie Kouadio Amouzame and Alice Lin Glover on several additional topics.

Initially, I pushedback with the founders on certain of their answers, trying to make excuses for the poor performance of beauty industry executives.

Having read the McKinsey report after the interview, there is a better understanding on my part of certain answers and opinions expressed by the ace entrepreneurs. While they are as charming as two highly-credentialed creators can be, perhaps “strident” is the only language big business understands.

It would not surprise me if Virgil himself sent a telepathic message into the universe, saying: “Get that McKinsey Report on black beauty over to Anne Enke. Normally, very open-minded, Anne needs a quick beauty industry refresher course today.”

The EADEM Interview

How Has Women of Color’s Heritage Influenced EADEM?

Our brand is created to honor the roots and traditions of currently underrepresented women in US beauty industry. United by colorism, we continue to cherish the heritage of all countries by talking about beauty standards, secrets, traditions and wisdom across all our channels, including our magazine & social media.

We continue to research and introduce products created for all women of color: Black, Indigenous, Asian, Hispanic and Latino, individuals from Southern Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East.

What Are Some Challenges You Face Running EADEM?

The brand's mission is to provide a platform for women of color to share their unique stories and products and empower them to become self-reliant entrepreneurs. Despite our success, EADEM faces several challenges we are working to overcome.

First and foremost, the brand faces significant competition from established beauty brands that are well-funded and have years of experience marketing to women of color.

Additionally, we are facing resistance from mainstream retailers who are reluctant to carry brands specializing in makeup and hair products specifically designed for people of color.

However, with dedication and perseverance, we are confident, we can overcome these obstacles and continue serving as an empowering force for women of color across the globe.

What Makes EADEM Different From Other Online Retailers?

The company's mission is to create a safe space for women of color to connect and explore their beauty potential, and it has created a community of female shoppers who support one another. EADEM is changing the way women of color see themselves and their beauty potential, and its innovative products are sure to inspire other brands to follow its lead.

What Ingredients Does EADEM Use For Their Product?

All the products are free of sulfates, parabens, phthalates, and gluten. The team at EADEM is passionate about creating products that look not only great but also work great. We use various natural and organic ingredients in all of our products. These ingredients include black soap, cocoa butter, shea butter, and avocado oil.

[ Note from Anne: I probed this question of banned ingredients used in products for women of color deliberately, based on my own research.]

Which Ingredients Are Banned In The USA But Still Used By Other Brands?

Banning ingredients from beauty brands for women of color is not always effective, as some other large brands still use some banned ingredients for women of color. The following are some of the banned ingredients and why they were banned: coal tar dyes, hydroquinone, and melanin inhibitors.

Coal tar dyes are known to cause cancer and other health problems. Hydroquinone is a bleaching agent that can cause skin lightening and other skin problems. Melanin inhibitors can cause dark spots, wrinkles, and age spots.

These ingredients are often found in hair products, face wash, moisturizers, and foundation shades for women of color. Despite the ban, these products are still available on the market.

We stand for having clean and natural ingredients in our products, that do not cause any harm, but help to get even and glowing skin!

Conclusion

I am so impressed with every aspect of the EADEM brand story and what Marie Kouadio Amouzame and Alice Lin Glover have accomplished. This story has been bubbling for awhile, gaining traction in my mind, but it was only last Friday that I asked the founders directly if their funding is secure.

The answer is ‘no’. Reaching out to several friends and colleagues about this young beauty brand is a priority. If you have an interest to know more about the company, please reach out to me here.

OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just went to LinkedIn and Marie Kouadio Amouzame was Head of Brand Marketing, Global - Google Play. And she went to the Wharton School. Here is Alice Lin Glover, with an equally impressive background. I thought I knew all there was to know about these two women, but obviously the beauty business world has only taken a surface dive into their extensive credentials.

And now I’m remembering the GhostBusters song. Why??? What does this mean???

Good goddess. Virgil must be in the house. ~ Anne