In a luxury fashion industry seeking good news, the appointment of Pierpaolo Piccioli as Balenciaga’s creative director starting July 10th is worthy of fireworks.

Kering confirmed Monday evening in Paris that the highly-regarded talent will show his first collection during Paris Fashion Week in October.

Pierpaolo Piccioli Master Designer

“An accomplished and respected designer, and master of haute couture, Pierpaolo Piccioli will bring his unique creative vision and extensive experience to Balenciaga, building on the strengths and success achieved by the brand over the past decade under Demna’s creative direction, and in continuity with the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga and of the historic Parisian house,” Kering said in a press statement.

As Vogue noted today, May 19, 2025, the design synergy between Piccioli and Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga is significant.

The Kering fashion house is navigating choppy waters — made much more difficult than was necessary. Piccioli will replace Demna Gvasalia, who had held the top job at Balenciaga for the past 10 years. Earlier this year, Kering appointed Gvasalia, known by his first name Demna, as artistic director of flagship brand Gucci.

Questionable Kering Wisdom on Gucci

Anne of Carversville has absolutely nothing to say about the Gucci appointment of Demna, except that we pray for the sake of our industry and Kering as a key player, that it bears robust fruits in Kering’s quest for a Gucci revival.

The red blood at Gucci, Kering’s largest brand, continues to flow with another 25% decrease in first quarter 2025. The house is annualizing staggering decreases in one of the worst bloodbaths the industry has witnessed for any luxury brand.

As the Wall Street Journal’s Andrea Figueras wrote today in announcing the Balenciaga appointment, “Coupled with Gucci’s difficulties, Kering was hit by Balenciaga’s scandal in 2022 over controversial ad campaigns featuring children.” WSJ isn’t just being difficult — or Republican leaning with MAGA values — with these jabs. There is a method to their madness.

AOC has total conviction that Piccioli will quickly become a leader of unquestionable vision and talent for Balenciaga. And any brush with scandal at the house will be forgotten, under his creative leadership, reputation and pragmatic understanding of scandal.

Kering lost around $3 billion in stockmarket value after announcing in late March Demna Gvasalia's appointment as Gucci's new artistic director. The stock has not recovered. In addition to the well-founded concerns about Demna’s ‘aesthetic’ at Gucci, Kering was also brushing off concerns that Demna’s prior scandal could have any negative effect at Gucci, in AOC’s opinion.

On its own, that ‘bet’ by Kering executives — that Demna’s little mess won’t contaminate Gucci — is likely correct. But if any other scandal involving underage children were to arise in Kering’s house or history, oh dear. ~ Anne