How Shein Grabbed H&M America By the Throat | H&M Spring 2024 Campaign

How Shein Grabbed H&M America By the Throat | H&M Spring 2024 Campaign AOC Fashion

H&M celebrates Spring 2024 as a time of rebirth and new beginnings in a fresh and sophisticated campaign with equally upmarket clothes. For the women’s portion, models include Anok Yai, Bibi Breslin, Precious Lee, Raquel Zimmermann and Vittoria Ceretti styled by Kate Phelan.

Photographer Rafael Pavarotti [IG] is behind the lens, working with Albert Moya on what’s an exceptional and esoteric campaign film — the entire director’s cut. / Hair by Eugene Soulemain

Positive March Response to H&M Collections

In recent days, H&M received some much-needed positive news in response to the Spring 2024 collections. New H&M Group CEO Daniel Ervér, who abruptly replaced Helena Helmersson at the end of January, will be the first person to tell you that he had little to do with the encouraging March results. Although he was head of H&M, the largest business within the brand portfolio; and no one will replace him in that position.

The Worst Possible Retail Double Squeeze: Shein and Zara

H&M under Helmersson got caught in the worst possible squeeze and Ervér was her partner in that squeeze, being in charge at H&M for the last four years. Shein has hit many retailers hard with their really fast, fast-fashion design at throwaway prices. [We won’t update the concerns about Shein and the environment in this post.]

Zara is another matter, however. Zara was priced above H&M before their tradeup decision, initially making H&M look attractive to more cost-conscious customers.

Zara’s trading up of design and materials has been very successful with positive revenue growth and increased profits while selling fewer units, which makes environmental action types pleased.

Many of us now believe that only selling fewer units will truly get at the problem of overconsumption and throwaway fashion. Zara is the first big brand to test the hypothesis.

Fast Fashion Gunfight in America

It takes nerves of steel, plenty of moxie, solid experience and money to be still standing in the fast fashion sector, given the place of Shein in America.

When COVID came, it was an event that really put Shein on the map with young consumers locked up at home. Shein took off like an online rocket ship.

H&M controlled 16% of the fast fashion market in the US in November 2022, behind Shein's 50%. H&M’s $24.9 billion market cap as of November 2023 is approximately 35% of Shein's 2023 private valuation of $66 billion.