Tory Burch Asks Forbes Summit Why The Debate Around Equal Pay For Women Continues

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Tory Burch Asks Forbes Summit Why The Debate Around Equal Pay For Women Continues

Forbes considers Tory Burch to be one of America’s richest self-made women, estimating her net worth at $850 million. Judged today by her competence, strategic thinking and brand positioning, Tory Burch, who previously worked at Ralph Lauren and Vera Wang, says that when she launched her lifestyle brand in 2004, she wan’t taken very seriously.

Burch joined ultimate equal-pay activist Lilly Ledbetter to discuss the impact of the gender pay gap in a Forbes Women’s Summit discussion moderated by Cosmopolitan editor Jessica Pels. Ledbetter is known as the Alabama area manager at a Goodyear plant who learned through an anonymous note that she was paid 35%-40% less than men in her same position.

Ledbetter’s case wound its way through the US court system, until the Supreme Court in 2007 overturned a $3 million verdict in her favor, ruling that pay discrimination lawsuits must filed within 180 days of her first unequal paycheck. President Obama effectively nullified the court’s decision in 2009, making the Lilly Ledbetter Fair Pay Act, the first new law of his administration. Obama stipulated that the statute of limitations for filing equal-pay lawsuits based on pay discrimination resets with each new paycheck that is part of the discriminatory act.

Diet Prada Dishes With British Vogue On Using Their Instagram Account For Fashion Industry Changes

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British Vogue informs us about the lineage of Diet Prada's infamous Instagram account by Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler launched in December 2014. The duo was outed in October 2017 by The Fashion Law but silence reigned. 

“The time was going to come that we’d need to own it, eventually,” Schuyler told the Business of Fashion in May 2018, during Diet Prada’s official unmasking. Their quest for authority, and to establish themselves as two people with an opinion that matters, has granted Vogue an email interview with “DP” in between their day jobs and the industry events that their exposed identities now affords them.

“We weren't at the point then that we are now,” DP explains of playing down the hype around the account – an amalgam of two fashion addictions: Miuccia Prada and Diet Coke – a year ago. “Now that our work is having a real impact that's often positive, we're excited to own it.”

Owning it involves using Diet Prada as a platform for conscientious conversation around topics like diversity, equality and cultural appropriation. 

Will Fashion Hold Tight To Its Embrace Of Black Model Beauty? Here's Hoping

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Will Fashion Hold Tight To Its Embrace Of Black Model Beauty? Here's Hoping

Tiya Miles is a professor of American culture and history at the University of Michigan, as a member of the Program in American Culture, Center for Afro-American and African Studies and Native American Studies Program.  In 2011 Miles won a five-year grant MacArthur Fellowship for her intellectual prowess -- which is to say that Tiya Miles knows that's going on in her world.  

When the topic is models, Miles believes that Hollywood, fashion and beauty businesses are responding to the popular public movements demanding change. The changes are worldwide, but when the subject is fashion models, the lens centers on New York, London, Milan and Paris. Striking an ironic note, Miles sees our growing consciousness of the "importance of visibility and voclaity for people of color, particularly black people" as a positive outcome of the threatening rise of white nationalist identity across America and Europe.

“It is no coincidence that this runway model trend and movies like 'Black Panther' "have arrived at the same time," Prof. Miles told the New York Times after the Fall 2018 fashion shows. "The two are interlocked, as both have been incubating in what feels a like a growing crusade with many of the hallmarks of the Black Power movement of the 1960s and 1970s. They are part of a pushback against the dominant pressures of European and American white centrality.”

Denials Say Anna Wintour Is Going Nowhere As AOC Reflects On Edward Enninful's May 2018 New Fashion Army

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These rumors are not true, a Vogue representative told the Cut. "There's zero truth to the story." Condé Nast also denied that Anna Wintour will be leaving the company.

I read the Page Six story before the denials. The source of this stunning rumor about a fashion industry executive, the grand high priestess whose influence cannot be overstated, is a report published on “Page Six” titled, “Is Anna Wintour Out at Vogue?”  The publication reportedly spoke to a number of sources who said Wintour is going to exit her role this summer after her daughter’s Bee Schaffer's wedding Francesco Carrozzini, son of former Italian Vogue Editor Franca Sozzani, in July. The report also speculated who would replace Wintour were she to leave Vogue, who might be encouraging her to exit, as well as what other opportunities might the 68 year old want to pursue.

Longtime Condé chairman Si Newhouse, who died in October 2017, was Anna Wintour's biggest cheerleader. In the Anna is leaving narrative, his presumed successor is Jonathan Newhouse, chairman of  Condé Nast International, currently living in London running the company's international media. According to Page Six, Jonathan "doesn't like (the amount of power) Anna has" and favors Enninful." This assertion comes from a single source.

Under Wintour’s watch as artistic director, Condé has closed the print editions of Teen Vogue, Self and Details and it has fought to compete online after closing down Style.com. Sources told The Post that the company is about $100 million a year in red ink.

So 'informed' is the Page Six story that it says there's even buzz that Wintour's exit interview has already been arranged and granted to the New York Times. 

Edward Enninful: Ghanaian Immigrant

Besides being as stunned as everyone else with this Page Six Story about Anna Wintour leaving Condé Nast, I couldn't help thinking about a short piece from yesterday about Edward Enninful's May 2018 British Vogue cover.

For additional context, Enningful is originally from Ghana and I had just watched the superb Netflix documentary 'Maya Angelou: And Still I Rise."  There is a scene in the film featuring Maya Angelou living in Ghana for a time immediately after independence. Of course I was captivated as Angelou was surrounded by global activists and intelligentsia including Malcolm X.

I made a joke to myself that any moment Queen Elizabeth II would appear, dancing a foxtrot with Ghana's new president Kwame Nkrumah. This episode from 'The Crown' and my commentary on it has become a tried and true daily read on AOC. With that Queen EIizabeth appeared with Nkrumah, leaving me smiling and wanting to know more about Edward Enninful's parents. Were they activists? Because Enninful has spoken truth to power on the need for diversity in fashion his entire life. 

This was the backdrop of my own Sunday thoughts on Enninful's May 2018 Vogue UK cover. We have a long way to go here before Edward Enninful replaces Anna Wintour at American Vogue. 

Edward Enninful's New Day Fashion Army

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DFR 3.1.18 Riccardo Tisci Joins Burberry As Chief Creative Director | More Daily News

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Riccardo Tisci Joins Burberry!

Riccardo Tisci is a man who loves women, growing up in a female-centric family in Italy. AOC loves Tisci and always has, and we're THRILLED that Tisci is headed to Burberry as its chief creative officer. Tisci will be responsible for all of the brand's women's and men's wear collections, accessories, store design and advertising/marketing campaigns, with his launch date March 12.

Tisci will replace Christopher Bailey, who left Burberry after 17 years during February's London Fashion Week. 

“I am delighted that Riccardo is joining Burberry. He is one of the most talented designers of our time,” Marco Gobbetti, Burberry’s chief executive, said in a statement following the appointment. “His designs have an elegance that is contemporary and his skill in blending streetwear with high fashion is highly relevant to today’s luxury consumer. Riccardo’s creative vision will reinforce the ambitions we have for Burberry and position the brand firmly in luxury.”

Cindy Crawford Honors Gianni Versace, A True Lover Of Lady Boss, Smart Sensuality Women

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Cindy Crawford Honors Gianni Versace, A True Lover Of Lady Boss, Smart Sensuality Women

Supermodel Cindy Crawford is styled by Karla Welch in 'Versace, Versace, Versace', lensed by Carter Smith for InStyle Magazine March 2018.

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It has long been my contention that the mostly male designers, coupled with women editors, male photographers and male-dominated business interests felt a strong need to metaphorically cut the original supermodels down to size. These women were size 4-6 US Amazonian women who were powerful, sexual and exuded a confidence that the catwalk had never seen. At the time 25% of notoriously overweight American women could achieve a supermodel body with exercise and healthy eating. In recent years, the percentage is 6. 

Twenty-five years after the second wave of feminism culminated in a fiery display of supermodel prowess  -- accused photographer David Bellemere, who seemed to agree with white nationalist Steve Bannon that feminism will destroy 10,000 years of civilization -- broke new ground last week, arguing 50-years later that feminism threatens to pull Western civilization back to the Dark Ages. I do not exaggerate.  

Interviewed in 1990 about the ways in which she and a few other models were calling the shots and changing the game, Linda Evangelista made her infamous, regrettable, sarcastic waking up for 10,000 dollar-bills comment. Still, the spirit of her comment was true. The supers didn't get bossed around much. I doubt that stylists were ever accused of ripping off panties without permission with that 90's goddesses posse. 

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Gianni Versace celebrated strong, Amazonian women whose obvious sensuality was part of their glorious DNA. He was not afraid of female power and influence. In this era of #MeToo, the question of why the fashion industry supported a takedown of the original supermodels is worth considering again. The main argument is that the pendulum of change swung in the direction of the equally wonderful Kate Moss and heroin chic. Change is good, the industry argues. End of the conversation.

It's not at all clear that the fashion industry is as on fire with #MeToo as Hollywood is. How many fashion industry people agree with David Bellemere that #MeToo is taking our celestial, pinnacle-reaching, male-dominated civilization back to the Dark Ages? Exactly why the fashion industry is so far behind Hollywood in embracing #MeToo issues is a question worth asking. What is the industry's relationship with powerful women, whether they are models or brand managers? ~ Anne