Classicism Meets Something New in Loewe Fall 2023 Campaign by David Sims

Classicism Meets Something New in Loewe Fall 2023 Campaign by David Sims

With our creative, fashion minds wrapped around one word for the last three years — ‘surreal’ — Jonathan Anderson, creative director of Loewe for a decade, finally agreed with AOC that it’s time to bust out of the creative prison of everything is either ‘surreal’ or not ‘surreal’. Our binary thinking approach is beginning to bite us in our fashionable ‘derrières’.

Anderson seeks to draw attention to timely, complicated questions in fashion design — and they are not binary.

Talents Tang Wei and Taylor Russell are styled by Benjamin Bruno in Jonathan Anderson’s Fall 2023 Loewe Campaign, lensed by David Sims [IG]./ Makeup by Wong Chi Yee and Lucia Pieroni; hair by Lo Chu Sum & Duffy

“How do you go out of a surrealist aspect to something which is more about how we see clothing now? I think it’s kind of like a type of reduction,” he said. “Wanting to refine, and refine.”

Anderson is playing with our own minds in a very digital world.

In his Fall 2023 presentation, Anderson employed much eye-trickery. As Vogue noted, what appeared to be ordinary cardigans were, in fact, adhesive printed paper. Those cardigans were stuck on the models’ skins, but online viewers couldn’t tell the difference. We only knew what they appeared to be.

Read More

Vogue Philippines 1st Anniversary Issue Takes Us to Batanes in 'Origins' Story

Vogue Philippines 1st Anniversary Issue Takes Us to Batanes in 'Origins' Story

Models Jo Ann Bitagcol, Lukresia and Rina Fukushi cover the September 2023 issue of Vogue Philippines [IG], celebrating the magazine’s first anniversary.

Sharif Hamza [IG] is behind the lens, so proud of this anniversary issue cover story styled by Melissa Levy under fashion director Pam Quinones. / Hair by Mong Amado; makeup by Gery Penaso

In the words of Ticia Almazan, the first anniversary cover story ‘Origins: Retracing Our History in the Highlands’ invited over a dozen designers and artists to interpret their beloved country’s homegrown high craftsmanship and artisanal techniques.

In Batanes, “a microcosm of a sustainable world,” we find our people’s beginnings—a story of earth, sky, craft, and boundaries broken.

Read More

Church’s X Miu Miu Campaign Is Home to Whip Smart Boys Club Girls

Church’s X Miu Miu Campaign Is Home to Whip Smart Boys Club Girls

The new Fall/Winter 2023 Church’s X Miu Miu collaboration, breaking tomorrow August 29 online at MiuMiu and in MiuMiu stores from September 6, projects perfect execution and attention to detail.

‘Quirky’ but Whip Smart in the Global Men’s Club

Miu Miu has always thrived as being a bit ‘quirky’, a trait embedded in its arty, independent, young women DNA.

The multicultural, spirited Miu Miu girl chooses the unexpected, sartorial twist, like wearing Church’s brogues and double monk strap shoes with her sheerish, color-explosion Miu Miu separates.

The campaign has a distinctive point about Miu Miu charm and self-identity. She may well be studying at the London School of Economics, not only Central Saint Martins. Her glasses, brogues and gentleman’s club ‘heritage’ chair reinforce her brainiac status. She is daring and purposesful, even when appearing light-hearted or a bit silly. Do not underestimate this young Miu Miu woman.

Read More

Dua Lipa Covers Vogue France September, Wearing Style Austerity Lensed by Mert Alas

Dua Lipa Covers Vogue France September, Wearing Style Austerity Lensed by Mert Alas

Top talent Dua Lipa covers the September 2023 issue of Vogue France, wearing ALAÏA in a 180° turn away from her bushy, dark brows. Barely-there nude makeup and a blonde no-brows, visual closeup launches a fashion story portrait of Dua Lipa by Mert Alas solo [IG] to kick off the fall 2023 fashion season with austerity.

In contrast to her center stage May 2023, joyful butterflies, exquisitely beautiful Versace ‘La Vacanza’ Magic in Cannes, a joyless darkness has settled over Dua Lipa’s France. It is perhaps a sign of the times.

Dua Lipa has a mini Oprah operation going on with her Service95 website, a place of intellectual ideas and commentary — and her podcast.

Even more consequential are her words about homophobia and transphobia and how close they are to misogyny.

Dua Lipa is highly articulate in how she sees this challenge :

“Homophobia and transphobia are close to misogyny. A lot of people, deep down, are just afraid of themselves. The freedom of others confronts them with what they do not have the courage to express. The beauty of a free, true and proud being paralyzes them.”

Read More

Adwoa Aboah in 'Fresh Take' by Ronan McKenzie for Net-A-Porter August 21, 2023

Adwoa Aboah in 'Fresh Take' by Ronan McKenzie for Net-A-Porter August 21, 2023

Top model, social activist and Gurl Talk founder Adwoa Aboah makes an absolutely-lovely, up-front-and-personal, “I’ve got this” appearance in Net-a-Porter’s August 21st fashion pages.

We have some utterly gorgeous images of Aboah, lensed by Ronan McKenzie [IG].

Aboah could light up a cigar in this moment, like some seven-figure, boys club lawyer — and she is believable. She’s taken the male gaze and turned it inside out on a journey to self-love that has been challenging at times.

In 2022, Aboah’s acting classes paid off with her debut in the much-loved east London-based drama ‘Top Boy’. And she tells her ‘Fresh Take’ interviewer Liv Little that high on her list of priorities is doing a ‘TED Talk’.

Read More

Zendaya Enters an Era of Risk, Lensed by Steven Klein for ELLE US September, 2023

Zendaya Enters an Era of Risk, Lensed by Steven Klein for ELLE US September, 2023

Uber talent Zendaya tells ELLE US September 2023 writer Clover Hope, that at the impending age of 27, she’s “entering an era of risk.”

Stepping into the role of Tashi in director Luca Guadagnino’s R-rated, tennis-pros tryst drama ‘Challengers’ leaves her fans asking ‘Disney who?’

Clover Hope uses a new-to-AOC term that we admire and understand: ‘sensual chaos’. And who better to photograph the layers of sexual heat, ambiguity and self-revelation — but also misunderstanding— embedded in human sexuality, than the master of such images Steven Klein [IG].

It’s been a real drought of edgy images like Klein’s, but human sexuality itself has evolved mightily. Hence the repressive, hair-on-fire tactics of the right-wing extremists, who are always lurking under our bedcovers.

Read More

'Fellow Travelers' on Showtime Explained in Out Magazine September/October 2023

'Fellow Travelers' on Showtime Explained in Out Magazine September/October 2023

In a fashion story and interview for Out magazine, cover stars Matt Bomer, Jonathan Bailey, Jelani Alladin, and Noah J. Ricketts reflect on the familial bonds formed by the actors in the upcoming limited eight-episodes series ‘Fellow Travelers’, with its premier October 27 on ‘Showtime’.

This fashion story and narrative by Mey Rude was created for Out before the Hollywood actor’s strike. The quartet is styled by Michael Miller in images by Jason Hetherington [IG].

A mindblowing fact about the focus of the Showtime series ‘Fellow Travelers’ is the probable deceptions between the two leading figures in the purge of homosexuals in the US federal goverment in 1953: Wisconsin Sen. Joseph McCarthy and his chief counsel, Roy Cohn.

Even then, Roy Cohn was the subject of hush-hush, anecdotal rumours about his homosexual identity. Cohn was eventually diagnosed with AIDS and died in 1978.

Two more men with interesting biographies are tied to the key figures of ‘Fellow Travelers’. The first is America’s head of the FBI during the 1950s J. Edgar Hoover. The second — years later — is a younger man named Donald J. Trump.

Read More

Sydney Sweeney for S Moda El Pais September 2023 by Thomas Whiteside

Sydney Sweeney for S Moda El Pais September 2023 by Thomas Whiteside

The Hollywood strike disrupted actor Sydney Sweeney’s ability to speak about her past and future projects with the September 2023 issue of S Moda for El Pais [IG].

Readers do get a lesson in just how fervently Sydney Sweeney knew at the young age of three that she had a gift for acting. Once she understood people had actual jobs in acting, her young vision was fully-formed.

It was then that the 10-year-old took control of the situation with her five-year plan — which she presented to her parents. Key steps included “meeting casting directors, auditioning for short films, student films, or commercials.”

Read More

Will Icon Collection Pay Off for Victoria's Secret? Adriana, Candice, Gisele, Naomi to the Rescue

Will Icon Collection Pay Off for Victoria's Secret? Adriana, Candice, Gisele, Naomi to the Rescue

The new VS campaign is excellent and has some real VS icons featured. Bringing back past VS models is a terrific idea for a brand trying to find safe ground to stand on. Shop the new collection at the VS website.

If I read the VS copy carefully, I’m sure we are all icons somewhere in it, so let’s just cut the AOC analysis short here and say “good job, VS.”

The Icon by Victoria’s Secret Collection models includes VS greats Gisele Bündchen, Naomi Campbell, Adriana Lima, and Candice Swanepoel.

The Icon cast campaigns expands to include Adut Akech, Emily Ratajkowski, Hailey Bieber, Paloma Elsesser and Sui He. I’m pleased to say that every woman listed here has archives on AOC.

Oyadeas!

Oh dear goddess Oya. I tried . . . I tried . . . I tried so hard to step carefully, but I just fell down the “we’re all icons” rabbit hole, and I did not see it coming.

Read More

Ralph Lauren's 2023 US Open Collection Is Courtside August 28 in Queens/NYC

Ralph Lauren's 2023 US Open Collection Is Courtside August 28 in Queens/NYC

Ralph Lauren’s 2023 US Open collection is courtside on Monday, August 28 thru Sunday September 10 at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center in Queens, New York.

Skirts and/or Shorts for the Ball Crew

Ball girls made their debut at the US Open in 1977, an encouraging factoid until you learn that ball girls first ‘worked Wimbledon’ in 1920.

Ah yes. It’s a long road to women’s emancipation, even when you’re chasing balls around the tennis court in a grand slam event.

AOC finds the French much more emancipated for women than America these days. But the French Open didn’t get ball girls until 1984; and the Australian Open was also in the early 1980s.

Ralph Lauren, Team USA and the Road to Paris 2024

AOC expects LVMH to help deliver another spectacle for the ages, as a premium partner of the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games.

I’m not sure how they will top the June 20, 2023 Pharrell Williams debut for Louis Vuitton Men — a night that rocked Paris with sounds of ‘Joy’.

Ralph Lauren will again be outfitting Team USA for the Paris 2024 games— giving us two global citizens companies, who share Anne of Carversville’s values.

Read More