America’s Black Cowboys, As Tributed by Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2024 Men’s Collection: Pt 1 of a French-American Cowboys Story

America’s Black Cowboys, As Tributed by Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2024 Men’s Collection: Pt 1 of a French-American Cowboys Story

Historians estimate that in the latter half of the nineteenth century, one in four American cowboys was black. Anne of Carversville seriously doubts that this reality is taught in the history classes of American schools. Additionally, an estimated 12% of cowboys were Mexican.

Thanks to the January 18th Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2024 Men’s Collection show at the Jardin d’Acclimatation in Paris, this historical lens of exploration is opened wide. AOC is both incredulous and excited to tell this story. But first — a look at the highly-praised, Louis Vuitton Men Creative Director Pharrell Williams Fall-Winter 2024 show.

Black Cowboys and Slavery

The history of black cowboys in America is deeply intertwined with the legacy of slavery and the Civil War. Prior to Emancipation, many enslaved African Americans were forced into labor on plantations, including working with cattle. Other African Americans went west to California as slaves of gold miners and to Utah as slaves of Mormons.

Texas became the largest home to black cowboys.

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Dolce & Gabbana Spring-Summer 2024 Campaign by Steven Meisel

Dolce & Gabbana Spring-Summer 2024 Campaign by Steven Meisel

Designers Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana work with art director Fabien Baron and stylist Karl Templer to create a Spring-Summer 2024 campaign rich with high-class swagger, penetrating eye confidence, and an attitude that says “judge me at your own risk — because I will take you down.”

With Steven Meisel [IG] on photography, the images will have these ingredients because Meisel often plays high-low with his human subjects. As a result, there are layers of meaning and interpretation that seep out of the images and into our own minds. They are created to be mildly disruptive, another characteristic that makes them interesting and one that Meisel understands deeply.

What AOC loves about Dolce & Gabbana is that their garden is an Italian garden in the same way Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli are Italian gardens. But they are planting different crops growing in different parts of Italy and Sicily and Sardinia — from Rome to Milan to Florence and Venice.

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Candice Swanepoel's Business Savvy Takes Tropic of C Henna into Art Basel Miami

Candice Swanepoel's Business Savvy Takes  Tropic of C Henna into Art Basel Miami

Candice Swanepoel’s Tropic of C swimwear shares a new henna pattern, giving us a light touch different from typical swimwear prints and patterns. The henna pattern also sits well against the weathered surfaces of Villa Parodi Delfino [IG], available for rental on the Amalfi coast, a 50-kilometer stretch of coastline along the southern edge of Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula, in the Campania region.

Swanepoel also lives in Miami, and she launched the Tropic of C henna collection with curator Kimberly Drew, and Vogue's Elise Taylor.

The trio gathered an intimate group of friends for a luncheon with Vogue100, hosted at Jason Wright’s private residence.

Kimberly Drew is best known as the former social media manager for the Metropolitan Museum of Art and her use of the social media handle MuseumMammy [IG].

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Dior Magazine Delivers Niki de Saint Phalle Capsule, Lensed by Charlotte Hadden

Dior Magazine Delivers Niki de Saint Phalle Capsule, Lensed by Charlotte Hadden

Models Gonzalez Corona, Majesty Mare and Sophie Dominique invite us to a resort-capsule, art-inspired getaway, deeply grounded in nature and whimsy for Dior [IG]. Artist Niki de Saint Phalle is in the house and also the new issue of Dior Magazine.

Niki de Saint Phalle and the House of Dior

Initially working as a fashion model for the esteemed fashion house during the 1950s, Saint Phalle became acquainted with influential figures in the art world. This exposure provided her with invaluable insights into the realm of aesthetics and design, as she garnered the support of several Dior clients who recognized her potential as a creator.

In 1967, the artist with a rapidly growing international reputation was invited by Marc Bohan, then creative director of Dior, to collaborate on a collection that would challenge conventional notions of beauty and femininity.

At age 37, Saint Phalle's bold and vibrant Nana sculptures became the centerpiece of this collaboration.

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Lila Moss in 'My Roman Empire' Gucci Story by Theo Liu for British Vogue February 2024

Lila Moss in 'My Roman Empire' Gucci Story by Theo Liu for British Vogue February 2024

Model Lila Moss is styled by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson in a Gucci advertorial ‘My Roman Empire’. Photographer Theo Liu [IG] is behind the lens for British Vogue February 2024.

WSJ reflected on Gucci and the brand’s new CEO Jean-Francois Palus, writing that Palus “embodies the severity of the changes: A Frenchman at the head of a company that is as Italian as Chianti, he isn’t yet fluent in the native language, nor does he have a creative background.”

Palus began his career as an auditor and financial adviser with Arthur Andersen. He then ran the books for the timber division of the conglomerate that would go on to become Kering.

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Prada 2024 Chinese New Year Campaign by Leslie Zhang at Prada Rong Zhai

Prada 2024 Chinese New Year Campaign by Leslie Zhang at Prada Rong Zhai

Prada’s new advertising campaign for the 2024 Chinese New Year celebrates the Year of the Dragon. Photographer Leslie Zhang [IG] captures the images at the Prada-restored Rong Zhai cultural center in Shanghai.

The 2024 Lunar New Year campaign stars supermodel and actor Du Juan and Zhao Lei, the face of Yang Fudong’s film ‘First Spring’, currently on show at the Pradasphere II exhibition in Shanghai.

Power of the Dragon

According to ancient Chinese mythology the dragon is closely linked to the creation and origin of the Chinese nation.

One prominent myth tells the story of the Dragon Kings, who were powerful and influential deities in Chinese mythology. According to this myth, the Dragon Kings were responsible for controlling the waters, including rivers, seas, and rainfall, and were revered as protectors of the land.

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Vivienne Rohner Polished Modern Tailoring for Zara January 2024

Vivienne Rohner Polished Modern Tailoring for Zara January 2024

Top Zara model Vivienne Rohner poses in sleek, neutral-colors separates for the brand’s January 2024 drop, lensed by Hanna Tveite [IG].

Minor Anti-Zara, Atelier The Jacket Blowback

Stopping by Zara’s [IG], AOC notes that the FREE PALESTINE forces continue to punish the brand for allegations that it capitalized on Palestinian suffering with its recent Atelier campaign.

Reuters reports that Inditex posted a 32.5% increase in net profit to $4.42 billion, for the nine-months to end-October, 2023. In the six weeks ending Dec. 11, Inditex posted a 14% increase in holiday sales.

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Burberry Lunar New Year 2024 Campaign Shot by Ryan McGinley in Chendu, China

Burberry Lunar New Year 2024 Campaign Shot by Ryan McGinley in Chendu, China

Burberry brand ambassadors Chinese actor Tang Wei and actor, singer, producer Chen Kun, along with models He Cong, Wang Xiangguo and Alex Schlab, front the Burberry Lunar New Year 2024 campaign.

The Burberry Prorsum knight rides on every piece, and has not been replaced in this Year of the Dragon. The Chinese celebration images were lensed by Ryan McGinley [IG] in the city of Chengdu, one of China’s fastest growing cities.

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Winter 2023.24 Armani Neve Ski Campaign by Brett Lloyd and St. Moritz Boutique

Winter 2023.24 Armani Neve Ski Campaign by Brett Lloyd and St. Moritz Boutique

Giorgio Armani launched Armani Neve in the mid-90s, long before ski collections became a trend. The Italian perfectionist’s approach to high-style design and ‘la dolce vita’ living on the ski slopes makes another decades-old bow with the new Winter 2023/24 collection.

Models Giacomo Cavalli, Ibrahim Idoow, Jiayun Xie, Tommy Vanden Meerssche, and Valerie Scherzinger are captured by photographer Brett Lloyd [IG] and styled by Mauro Demestria in retro feeling images perfect for a St. Moritz New Year’s. / Makeup by Arianna Campa; hair by Giovanni Iovino

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Will Sotheby's Magazine Cover LeNell Santa Ana Camacho's Whisky Journey Red Hook to Birmingham?

Will Sotheby's Magazine Cover LeNell Santa Ana Camacho's Whisky Journey Red Hook to Birmingham?

When former editor in chief of WSJ Magazine Kristina O’Neill departed her position in April 2023, the luxury fashion and style world knew she was going somewhere important.

Kristina O’Neill has been named editor in chief of the new Sotheby’s Magazine, starting Jan. 8. She will report directly to Gareth Jones, Sotheby’s chief marketing officer.

In perhaps the best story of all, Sotheby’s recent American whisky auction set new records with two big blockbusters. LeNell’s Red Hook Rye 23 Year and Rathskeller Rye, each sold far beyond their highest initial estimate ranges. The LRHR 23 year scoring $56,250 (est range $20,000 – $30,000) and RR grabbing $37,500 ($18,000 – $24,000).

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Karlie Kloss Buys i-D Magazine as CEO. Alastair McKimm Now CCO, Global EIC

Karlie Kloss Buys i-D Magazine as CEO. Alastair McKimm Now CCO, Global EIC

Karlie Kloss is the proud owner of i-D Magazine, a decade after being featured on i-D’s Spring 2013 cover.

Fast forward to November 2023, where Karlie’s new media company Bedford Media is flying solo in acquiring i-D Magazine.

Karlie will lead the British magazine as CEO, with i-D top editor Alastair McKimm [IG] expanding his role to the title of chief creative officer and global editor-in-chief.

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Louis Vuitton Taps Pharrell Williams As First Guest of Podcast 'Louis Vuitton Extended' Out Now

Louis Vuitton Taps Pharrell Williams As First Guest of Podcast 'Louis Vuitton Extended' Out Now

Louis Vuitton is launching a podcast with popular French fashion journalist, documentary maker and YouTuber Loïc Prigent. Called ‘Louis Vuitton Extended’, the podcast will dive deeper into the scenes of what’s happening behind the scenes at one of the world’s premier luxury houses. That Prigent-guided conversation includes the house’s cultural codes, values and activism.

In the case of Louis Vuitton Men’s creative director Pharrell Williams, the dialogue will focus on the June 20, 2023 show and all the decisions made around its structure and content.

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Burberry's New Pop-Ups and Immersive Events Design Live Well in a Psilocybin World

Burberry's New Pop-Ups and Immersive Events Design Live Well in a Psilocybin World

The field of Burberry winter 2023 purple roses popping into the first floor of Seoul’s Shinsegae Department Store's Gangnam branch is a feast for our psilocybin-loving eyes.

This new Burberry pop-up in Seoul is sophisticated, charming in a totally-modern way and also a reflection of ‘restrained psychedelic design’. There is nothing ‘flashy’ about the visual design. It beckons us, however to explore the shop — which is a key attribute of a successful pop-up.

‘Restrained Psychedelic Design’

Magic mushrooms inspired profound introspection and spiritual connections long before the rise of monotheism.

In a world where psilocybin use is coming at us in a profound and urgent way — after a Nixon-administration 50-year ban — my reaction to the Burberry purple roses display was instantaneous.

My memory was transported to my own use of psilocybin and a dark night walk I took, eventually sitting down next to a flower bed on my own lawn.

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Sporty & Rich Founder Emily Oberg In the Streetwear Passing Lane With Soho Store

Sporty & Rich Founder Emily Oberg In the Streetwear Passing Lane With Soho Store

“I do consider Sporty & Rich streetwear, but I also consider it a lifestyle and wellness brand,” Oberg is quoted by Vogue. “I’m trying to get out of the ‘streetwear’ lane because I feel it is very limiting—even Supreme’s business isn’t as strong as it once was because people are just shopping differently. The demand for logo-driven items is decreasing, so I want to expand and broaden the range.” 

The spa facilities are very much “if you know, you know” and Oberg has no intention of putting a sign in the window. “Health is Wealth” is a core brand plank for Sporty & Rich — and very deeply embedded in in Emily Oberg’s personal DNA.

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Prada's Caffe Principe: Where Excellence Meets Timelessness in Forte dei Marmi

Prada's Caffe Principe: Where Excellence Meets Timelessness in Forte dei Marmi

Nestled in the enchanting Italian coastal town of Forte dei Marmi, Caffè Principe stands as a true testament to the la dolce vita marriage of excellence and timelessness.

Since its establishment in 1959, this iconic establishment has been a haven for discerning coffee lovers, gastronomes, and art enthusiasts alike. The cafe reopened today, July 9, 2023, with its legacy intact.

In fact, Caffe Principe has been restored to honor the legacy of the hotspot, keeping its original name. Caffè Principe is managed operationally by Marchesi 1824, which makes perfect sense.

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Paloma Elsesser Wages War on 'Fatphobia' in D Repubblica May 19 Cover Story

Paloma Elsesser Wages War on 'Fatphobia' in D Repubblica May 19 Cover Story

Supermodel Paloma Elsesser covers the May 19, 2023 issue of D Repubblica, styled in a wide range of sensual, dark beauty looks by Laetitia Gimenez Adam.

Luxury labels including Blumarine, Dolce & Gabbana, Maison Alaia, Niccolò Pasqualetti, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello and more join forces with Paloma in designs that do not contain the female body.

Photographer Pablo Di Prima [IG] is in the studio./ Hair by Matt Benns; makeup by Marcelo Gutierrez

Paloma Elsesser is waging a war against fatphobia, saying:

"It's absurd that such a large percentage of people are excluded. Who can think that fashion only interests thin people?". "I want to get the message across that even if you're imperfect, you can have the life you want," she explains. And here she talks about the days on set when you don't have "that" size, the hypocrisies of the system and that time at the age of 8 in Gap's dressing room ...

The Failure of BodEquality

Non-luxury retailing is having major struggles with keeping their businesses solvent. But in the case of BodEquality, a new challenge I’ve not read before, has entered the convo. Brands should invest years of losing money to earn the trust of potential plus-size customers. I will also add, even if you are trying to achieve new sustainability goals that require major financial investment.

Our dear Edward Enninful, EIC of British Vogue, has very strong opinions on this topic. Let him take his three new supers he has crowned and his very intelligent self and become a “flying squad of larger-bodies intelligence” that is deeply-embedded in three test case brands.

Don’t just demand representation. Do something constructive.

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Angelina Jolie Launches Atelier Jolie For Self-Expressive Humanists Clients and Global Creators

Angelina Jolie Launches Atelier Jolie For Self-Expressive Humanists Clients and Global Creators

"We will use only curated quality vintage material and deadstock," Jolie wrote under her Instagram post, which revealed a rustic brand logo [see collage] designed by Peter Miles, an art director who has collaborated with such fashion brands as Celine, Gabriela Hearst and Repossi. "You will be able to repair or upcycle a piece from your closet you wish to revive, perfecting fit, breathing new life into what could have been thrown away, and creating quality heirloom garments with personal meaning."

Speaking personally, Anne thinks Jolie will get help from women like Gabriela Hearst and Maria Grazia Chiuri. She has deep roots into the luxury brands community — brands with excellent deadstock. Jolie wears Gabriela Hearst frequently. And don’t forget Stella McCartney, who two years ago was in charge of deadstock across all the LVMH divisions. The only one not in the LVMH fold now is Hearst.

Oh please, I love this!!

LVMH Luxury Ventures, the fund created to assist young and promising brands, acquired in 2019 a minority percentage of Gabriela Hearst. The investment of the French conglomerate will allow the brand to develop all over the world. I just checked, and that investment remains on May 18, 2023.

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"If I Ain't Got You" by Alicia Keys & Queen Charlotte's Women of Color Orchestra

"If I Ain't Got You" by Alicia Keys & Queen Charlotte's Women of Color Orchestra

Last Monday, May 8th, Alicia Keys celebrated the 20th anniversary of “If I Ain’t Got You”, and she did it in the style of “Queen Charlotte: A Bridgerton Story”, debuting on Netflix.

The track was produced with the Queen Charlotte's Global Orchestra, a 74-piece ensemble made up entirely of women of colour.

The orchestra features renowned musicians from all over the world, including Ofentse Pitse, who’s the first Black female conductor of South Africa. Among the musicians are Rimon from Netherlands, Amel Bent from France, Alicia Away from Germany, Cherrie from Sweden, and Delara from Norway. The musical arrangement was made by Bobbie-Jane Gardner.

Alicia Keyes was dressed by Dior, wearing a SS23 ensemble pairing a crinoline skirt in plumetis tulle with delicate lace encrustations with a matching bra top. via Dior IG.

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Prada Reopens in East Hampton, NY As Summer Luxury Rentals Market Cools

Prada Reopens in East Hampton, NY As Summer Luxury Rentals Market Cools

With the opening of Prada’s East Hampton newly-redesigned store at 2 Newtown Lane, the summer 2023 luxury brands offering is nearly set.

Prada opened the 1600 square foot store in July 2022 with green and white cabana stripes and not today’s blue and white. The Italian luxury brand will drop product exclusive to the Hamptons, where this is their only store.

In the world of post-COVID summer rentals, the overheated market appears to have cooled. The number of rentals has expanded as demand has fallen.

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Miuccia Prada Talks 30 Years of Miu Miu with Kendall Jenner on Display for W Magazine

Miuccia Prada Talks 30 Years of Miu Miu with Kendall Jenner on Display for W Magazine

Supermodel Kendall Jenner wears Miu Miu favorites styled by Max Pearmain and Miuccia Prada in this fashion story lensed by Alasdair McLellan [IG].

Read W Magazine for all the vintage Miu Miu fashions and also an interview with Eric Wilson titled “Miuccia Prada Talks 30 Years of Miu Miu, Her Greatest Experiment.”

Mrs. Prada is troubled with the idea of presenting post-pandemic fashion as a form of “escapism or entertainment during difficult times”.

“I really don’t like this idea that ‘Fashion is a dream,’ ” Prada says. “First of all, if I have a dream, I want to achieve it, so it’s an objective or a direction. Something that has a strange beauty of who-knows-what-it-is, I really detest.”

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